Guide to Gemstone Cutting Styles: Shapes, Facets & What to Know

 

Gemstone Cut Types - Shapes and Styles
Gemstone Cutting Styles

Guide to Gemstone Cutting Styles

Choosing the perfect gemstone means more than color and clarity—it’s also about the cut. The way a gem is shaped and faceted determines its brilliance, character, and how it reflects light. In this guide, California jewelry designer Lisa Ramos breaks down the most popular gemstone cuts—from classic round to unique fancy shapes—to help you choose a style that fits your personal taste and lifestyle.

How Gemstone Cutting Impacts Appearance

Every cut has its own charm: some enhance sparkle, while others show off the gem’s color or create a vintage feel. Cutting time varies too—a small faceted gem may take up to 5 hours, while intricate styles can take days. Let’s explore what makes each one special.


Gemstone Cutting Styles Chart

Round cut gemstone example
Round

Most popular with 58 facets.

Cushion cut gemstone example
Cushion

Classic pillow-shaped cut, often with 58 facets.

Radiant cut gemstone example
Radiant

Brilliant-style facets with a rectangular or square shape.

Princess cut gemstone example
Princess

Square outline, typically with 57 facets.

Asscher cut gemstone example
Asscher

Step-cut style with around 74 facets.

Trilliant cut gemstone example
Trilliant

Triangular cut with approximately 31–50 facets.

Heart cut gemstone example
Heart

Romantic heart shape, often with 56–58 facets.

Lozenge cut gemstone example
Lozenge

Diamond-shaped cut, commonly with 8 facets.

Oval cut gemstone example
Oval

Elongated shape, often with 58 facets.

Baguette cut gemstone example
Baguette

Rectangular step-cut, often around 14 facets.

Emerald cut gemstone example
Emerald

Step-cut rectangle, typically with about 50 facets.

Tapered baguette cut gemstone example
Tapered Baguette

Tapered rectangular step-cut, usually 14 facets.

Pear cut gemstone example
Pear

Teardrop shape, traditionally with 58 facets.

Marquise cut gemstone example
Marquise

Football-shaped outline with about 57 facets.

Half moon cut gemstone example
Half Moon

Half-circle accent cut; facet count varies by design.

Rhomboid cut gemstone example
Rhomboid

Angular geometric cut; often used as side stones.

Whistle cut gemstone example
Whistle

Unique elongated shape; facet patterns vary.

Trapeze cut gemstone example
Trapeze

Trapezoid-shaped cut often used as side stones.

Bullet cut gemstone example
Bullet

Tapered bullet-like outline; facet count varies.

Fan cut gemstone example
Fan

Fan-shaped design, ideal for decorative settings.

Kite cut gemstone example
Kite

Kite-shaped fancy cut used in modern designs.

Green and pink tourmaline gemstones - emerald and baguette cut styles

Green and pink tourmaline gemstones — emerald and baguette cut styles

Faceting vs. Cabochon

Faceted gems sparkle through precise cuts, angles, and facets that bounce light back to the eye. These cuts are ideal when you want maximum brilliance and fire.

Smooth, domed cabochons showcase color, chatoyancy, or depth—perfect for gems like opal, moonstone, and certain types of tourmaline. Rather than relying on sparkle, cabochons highlight a gem’s inner glow and unique natural effects.

Both faceted and cabochon styles have their place in fine jewelry. The “best” choice depends on your personal style, how you plan to wear the piece, and how much sparkle versus softness you prefer.

Shopping Checklist: Choosing the Right Cut

  • Set your budget—more complex cuts typically cost more.
  • Consider lifestyle—facets add sparkle but can be more fragile in high-wear settings.
  • Remember the 4 C’s: Cut, Color, Clarity, Carat.
  • Check durability via the Mohs Hardness Scale.
  • Think about maintenance—some cuts can hide scratches better than others.

Simple Checklist for Gemstone Jewelry Shopping

  • Establish a budget. A budget helps determine what types of gems fall into your price range.
  • Familiarize yourself with the 4 C’s about gems: color, clarity, cut, and carat. The 4 C’s determine the value and cost of a gem and help you understand the quality and style cut of your gemstone purchase.
  • Ask yourself how important a gem’s durability is. How will your gemstone wear over time? Are you rough on jewelry? These questions will narrow down what stones fit within your lifestyle. Review the Mohs Hardness Scale. Softer stones are more likely to get damaged and require special care.
  • Learn how to care for your gemstone. Some stones cannot be put in an ultrasonic cleaner, while others can, so it’s important to understand cleaning and care instructions before you buy.

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